copyright © J.Middleton There are few old postcards of Hove Street. This one clearly shows that it was not a straight thoroughfare |
Background
It should be remembered that some
early settlement at Hove was likely to have been south of modern-day
Hove Street on land long since lost to the sea. When William the
Conqueror stumbled ashore at Hastings in 1066, Hove extended south
for another 150 acres. It is a curious fact that some of this land
was known as Le Greves, and old deeds mention properties being
situated ‘under the cliff’.
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museum,
Brighton & Hove
Representation of the Attack made by the French Fleet upon
Brighthelmston. A.D. 1545. From a drawing made by J.T. Smith, reproduced from a coloured map at the British Library. Published by
the Antiquities of London. It is now thought the drawing represents
the raid made by the French in 1514 when the whole town was burned.
To the left is Hove Village centred around Hove Street, to the north is 'Hoove Church' - (St Andrew's Church) |
Probably the earliest mention of Hove Street, although it was not called that, occurs in 1576 when Richard Andrew was granted a piece of land on the seashore called Le Greves to build a shop on the east part of Hove highway towards the sea, the rent being 2d a year.
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museum,
Brighton & Hove The Environs of Brighthemstone by Thomas Yeakell c1800 This map shows the village of Hove around Hove Drove (Hove Street). |
On 4 September 1796 a crowd collected on the shore at the foot of Hove Street to watch as the ship Lewes of Newhaven was captured by a French privateer and taken to Boulogne where the English crew were held prisoners.
There were two wells in the
village – one at either end, but the southern one could be
problematic, and after a severe storm the well became polluted with
sea water and had to be abandoned.
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museums,
Brighton & Hove
Pre 1880 map of Hove Street |
Bull-baiting
The
people living in Hove in those days enjoyed violent sports such as
dog-fighting and bull-baiting. It was a peculiar fact that on 30
November, which was the feast day of St Andrew, the patron saint of
Hove church, there was a celebration in the form of an annual fair
and some bull-baiting. This custom was also carried over to a major
religious festival – the celebration of Easter, and on Easter
Tuesday there was more bull-baiting. Mine host at the nearby
Ship Inn could expect
plenty of custom on these occasions. The bull ring was situated on
the south-west side of Hove Street, south of the coast road.
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museum,
Brighton & Hove
"View of Hove" by George Hilditch,
showing St Andrew's Old Church and Hove Street to the left c.1850. |
Cock-fighting
The men also enjoyed watching cock-fighting. The cockerels fought with tiny spurs that were attached to their legs to inflict maximum damage. The general public came to deplore this practice, and in 1849 Parliament passed a law making it illegal. This law was completely ignored by some Hove men, and cock-fighting continued in secret in Hove Street. The Hove Courier (29 April 1882) reported that in one of Hove’s oldest and narrowest thoroughfares cock-fighting took place on a Sunday in the back yard of a tailor’s shop. But the tailor’s wife was unhappy about it because she hated cock-fighting, and thought her husband could get into trouble as well. The wife stayed out of the way in her kitchen. Of course no names were mentioned in the report.
But there is one name we do know
due to Tom Hicks because cock-fighting was amongst his earliest
memories. He claimed that George Jennings, who was born in the 1840s
and died in April 1929, fitted up the interior of an old flint-built
slate-roofed shed with white sheets around the walls to provide a
proper cock-main. It looks like it was a canny commercial investment
because the unfortunate cockerels were his own, and so he knew which
ones were the pluckiest; no doubt the money he made from the betting
came in very useful. In his youth Jennings was a noted sprinter but
he gambled away a fortune. He also bred and raced greyhounds.
Hove Street Meadow
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museums,
Brighton & Hove
Brighton Argus 10 October 1891 The advert claims the newly erected arena at the Hove Street Meadows will seat 15,000 people. See the separate page The Circus comes to Hove |
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museums,
Brighton & Hove
Brighton Herald 6 August 1898 The circus at Hove Street Meadow (See the separate page The Circus comes to Hove) |
Hunting foxes on horseback could be equally as bloody of course but since it was the gentry engaged in the chase, society tolerated it. Siegfried Sassoon narrates the old custom of ‘blooding’ whereby the young novice had the fox’s blood besmirched on the face as a sort of initiation. At Hove Manor, there was plenty of evidence of fox-hunting with fine horses in the stables and fox feet and brushes nailed up on the stable doors as well as horse-shoes for good luck. In the 1890s Hove Manor still retained its hunting stables and barns, cow sheds, and buttery.
Some
of the men who lived in Hove Street were also involved in smuggling,
and it could be said the money supplemented the meagre wages they
earned as agricultural labourers. Indeed, Hove with its remote beach,
became so notorious for smuggling activities that the authorities
were obliged to build a Coastguard Station to the south-east of Hove
Street. Contraband was hidden locally, and smugglers did not have to
go far to hide their loot, often using the malthouse at the top of
the street – where the
Connaught stands today.
copyright © J.Middleton This corner of Hove has changed completely. Hove College on the left, the Coastguard Cottages and Station on the right, have all been demolished. But the 1897 Hove Lodge is still standing |
Bare-knuckle Fighting
This was another diversion enjoyed by the men of Hove. It was actually called Prize-ring Tourneys. Forget about the Queensbury Rules – these were brutal fights with no boxing gloves to soften the blows and bouts could last a considerable time. It was a case of the last man left standing. Even as late as the 1890s it was stated that some of the current boxing champions had trained in the vicinity of the Ship Inn.
The Malt-House
The malt-house stood almost at the top of Hove Street on the north west corner. In the Brighton Gazette (16 August 1827) it was advertised for leasing. It was stated that that there was a cistern ‘capable of wetting fifteen quarters of barley’ and a large storeroom capable of holding 700 quarters of malt and around 300 quarters of barley.
The Vallance family owned the malt-house, and different men leased it over the years. For example, there were the following:
1850 – Benjamin Davis was the occupant
1861-1869 – Henry Longhurst
1873-1877 – William C. Tamplin
The malt-house had no windows, but there were stout wooden bars and shutters to let down as required. The men used very wide wooden shovels at their work, and on their feet they wore lambskin with the wool on the inside, which gave them a somewhat ‘gouty’ appearance.
William Hollamby, writing in 1897, remembered the malt-house from his youth. As a young boy, he and his friends used to shout and tease the workers until one day they decided to retaliate. They tied a length of string from the loft to the piece of wood keeping the shutter open, then just when the boys were at their most boisterous, the string was pulled, down came the shutters and the boys were caught like rats in a trap. The men improved the occasion by drenching the boys with a bucket of cold water. After that lesson, the boys left the malt-house in peace.
The
malt-house was demolished before the Connaught
Hotel was
built in 1880.
copyright © J.Middleton The Connaught Hotel was built on the site of the old Hove Street malt-house. The photograph was taken on 17 March 2014. |
Brick-making
In the 1851 census there were three households in Hove Street where the bread-winner earned his money from bricks. There was one brick-maker, one brick-maker’s labourer, and one brick-layer. Brick-making was an important industry in Hove for many years. It started off at the end of the 18th century on land bordering with Brighton, and continued to the 20th century, by which time the brick-fields had moved to Aldrington.
A Female Blacksmith?
The Street Directories for 1854 and 1859 record an intriguing person – namely Elizabeth Adams, blacksmith. It seems probable that she owned the family business rather than wielding the hammer at the anvil herself.
The Sewer Tussle
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museum,
Brighton & Hove Hove Street in the late 1870s, then called Hove Drove |
The
Vallance family occupied Hove Manor on the east side of Hove Street
from at least the 1790s and the family remained there until the 20th
century. The Vallance Estate was the third largest land-holding in
Hove after the Stanford Estate and the Wick Estate.
Joseph Anscombe £599
I. G. B. Marshall £450
John Blackmore £469
Charles Curd £450
Lainson
was not at all happy about the cost, claiming that the lowest tender
was still more than 50 per cent in excess of similar work lately
carried out by the Trustees. The clerk to the Hove Commissioners
suggested that the Trustees might like to pay three-fourths of the
cost. Finally, in December 1872 Hove Commissioners decided to put
£122-3-6d towards
the cost of constructing a sewer – it being the estimated cost of
the difference between a 12-in pipe and the proposed sewer.
copyright © Royal
Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove
A long lost view of Hove Street, which has changed beyond all recognition in the last 100 years or so. |
In October 1899 Hove Council decided that the space at the north-west corner opposite Lloyd’s Bank should become a hackney carriage stand.
Road Widening
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museums,
Brighton & Hove
Brighton Season Magazine 1917-1918 |
copyright © J.Middleton Cliff House (Hove College) and The Ship Inn in the narrow Hove Street (See the separate pages for Cliff House (Hove College) and The Ship Inn) |
1. Street works, including altering the sewer, gas and water mains, and building boundary walls - £4,250.
2. £1,000 to be paid to the Vallance Trustees.
3. Cost of setting back the Ship Inn - £4,500
4. Legal costs £250
Then an application had to be made to turn and divert the highway so that it continued north over land at present part of the Vallance estate.
On 8 December 1914 while
excavating for the sewer a fossil lower molar tooth of a horse was
found at a depth of 15-ft in gravel soil, and it was presented to
Hove Library. (Hove Museum was not then in existence and there was a
small display of various objects at Hove Library).
In the 1920s the population of Aldrington had increased to such an extent that the supply of electricity to them became a matter of urgency. In 1923 it was suggested that those roads west of Wish Road should continue to received their electricity supply from Southwick Power Station, which was owned by Brighton Corporation, while the rest should receive electricity from Hove. The latter meant that there needed to be a converter and transformer station in Hove Street. It seems the Vallance Trustees were again digging their heels in by not allowing Hove Corporation to buy just the necessary narrow strip of land. Instead the Trustees insisted that Hove Corporation should purchase the whole plot of land north of Hove Manor to Vallance Gardens for £5,000, plus £50 towards the party wall between Hove Manor and the sites, and 100 guineas to cover the legal fees.
The Vallance Trustees also insisted that the sub-station should be set back 26-ft from Hove Street, and that offices or a showroom should be erected in front to act as a noise buffer for the houses opposite. The land frontage was as follows:
To Hove Street 176-ft
To Vallance Gardens 281-ft
To Vallance Road 159-ft 6-in
Next to Hove Manor 261-ft 6-in
The adjacent property to the north
belonged to the Post Office. It was proposed that a Fire Station
should be erected on part of the site. A Fire Station was duly built
and opened in 1926, and there it remained for fifty years until it
moved to new premises in English Close. Meanwhile, the elegant old
building was not demolished, thankfully, and was converted into
commercial premises and living accommodation. By November 1997 it was
stated that Lauralex Investments had purchased the old Fire Station
for £550,000 – by then it was called Audley House and Regent
House. The properties were multi-let and produced an annual rent of
£69,800 a year.
Good-bye to Old Hove
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museums,
Brighton & Hove
Brighton Graphic 14 October 1915 The army camp mentioned in the above was at Goldstone Bottom, Smugglers were hung in chains at Gibbett's Farm in Aldrington, close to present day Old Shoreham Road. |
copyright © J.Middleton A late Victorian photograph of Hove Manor in Hove Street. (See separate page on Hove Manor) |
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove The Royal cars parked outside Hove Manor in Hove Street. The Brighton & Hove & South Sussex Graphic (9 January 1915) stated that King George V and Queen Mary dined at Hove Manor on the occasion of their visit to Hove when they came to inspect the 2nd Eastern General Hospital. |
In front of the cottages there was a flint-walled, slate-tiled, single-storey building with a sign ‘E. R. May, Bath Chair Stores’. These bath chairs were popular vehicles at Hove in which invalids were wheeled along the promenade for a good dose of sea air. The cottages and land were situated on the corner of Hove Street and Princes Avenue and belonged to Leonard Chadwell.
copyright ©
Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove This photograph from the Brighton Graphic shows how the original Ship Inn looked, before its demolition in 1914. A new Ship Inn was later rebuilt further back from the old road. (see the separate page The Ginger Pig - the Ship Inn's new name) |
Traffic Census
All the demolitions and new building works left the road surface in a terrible state, and to justify the expense of re-surfing it, a traffic census was taken on 4 August 1926. A total of 1,934 vehicles used Hove Street that day, broken down as follows:
216 motor buses
718 other motor vehicles
53 horse-drawn vehicles
57 hand-carts and barrows
135 motor-cycles
736 bicycles
In 1927 it was decided to pave the road with with creosoted deal blocks at a cost of £6,741, 5s.
Petrol Storage
In June 1928 it was stated that David Langford, garage proprietor, was going to install a petrol bulk-storage at numbers 5 & 6 Hove Street in a large open space in front of two cottages. The steel tanks would be situated underground, each having a double compartment to contain 500 gallons each. There would be six pumps.
Dolphin Court
Between Vallance Road and the back of the houses in Church Road there was a piece of waste land that Charlie Ham took over. He ran an ironmonger’s business at 212 Church Road, and raised poultry and grew vegetables on the land.
It was on this site that Dolphin Court was built, being completed by May 1959. Stonecroft Ltd of London were the developers who commissioned the 60-ft high block of flats, and their agents were Parsons, Son & Basley. It was the first block of flats to be constructed by H. J. Paris, and 50 men were employed on the project. It was also the first time a tower crane was used at Hove.
Morgan & Carn of 12 Grand Avenue were the architects, and there were 33 flats. The bricks were especially manufactured in a new colour range, and near the entrance a carving of a dolphin was installed. There were steel staircases, Balustrades and balconies, the latter faced with aluminium and vitreous enamelled by a new process widely used in the USA. Show flats were furnished by William Hill of Hove. Advertisements stressed that there was a uniformed porter in attendance, and there was central heating, constant hot water, gas fridges, and a TV connection if desired. Flats could be leased for seven years at £275 a year (one bedroom) £375 a year (two bedrooms) and £425 a year (three bedrooms).
Hove Lodge
copyright © J.Middleton This photo of the 1897 Hove Lodge was taken in July 2002 |
It is somewhat confusing that there are two distinct buildings known as Hove Lodge next door to each other on the west side of Hove Street. The southern Hove Lodge is a handsome red brick edifice built in 1897 and still with us. The Hove Gazette (12 February 1898) carried s small paragraph about Hove Lodge Mansions reporting that the huge building with its continental flats had ‘already begun to be inhabited’.
The original Hove Lodge, now demolished, has a long and fascinating history.
Hove Lodge was the subject of a marriage settlement dated 9 November 1842. In 1850 Mrs Minshaw lived in the house with her 32-year old nephew Charles Stuart Kirton. The nephew had suffered from depression for many years and on 27 April 1850 he drowned himself in the well belonging to Hove Lodge. He left the house at midnight and his footsteps were heard by the maids, but he was not missed until 5 a.m. Then a full-scale search was launched, and John Bartlett, carpenter, discovered the body in the well situated in a field next to Mrs Minshaw’s house. The well was 31-ft deep and the water level was 5-ft 6-in. Mr Kirton was clad in in his drawers and night clothes. An Inquest was held at the Ship Inn before Mr F. H. Gell, coroner, and the jury returned a verdict of insanity.
On 6 December 1853 Hove Lodge was let to Revd Henry H. Hamilton of Storrington. The terms were £130 a year for the first seven years, and £135 for the next seven years plus £5 for the use of the small meadow or paddock. The signatures on the document were as follows:
Edward Baugh of Lindfield and Mary his wife (1st part)
Charles Frederick Mann of Upper Holloway, Middlesex (2nd part)
Evan Jones of the Admiralty Register (2nd part)
Revd H. H. Hamilton (3rd part)
The schedule described the fittings in the house including an ornamental register stove with steel mouldings in the dining room, and a ‘bright front register stove with bronze ornaments and steel mouldings’ in the drawing room. The kitchen contained a 5-ft range with oven and back boiler, and there were five iron hooks in the ceiling. The butler’s pantry contained a Portland stone sink mounted on brickwork. The same sort of sink was to be found in the scullery along with two coppers and iron furnaces set in brickwork. Venetian sun-shades were fitted to the windows.
In the yard there was an
iron-bound water butt on brickwork. The stables contained two
mangers, a saddle-rack, five pegs, and a ladder to the hayloft. There
was a green painted lattice partition between the garden and the
paddock.
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museums,
Brighton & Hove
Brighton Herald 1 June 1895 |
Hove Lodge School / Academy
Revd Hamilton then ran a boys’
school on the premises. By the late 1840s Charles Dorange ‘professor of the
French Language’ was running the school.
copyright © Royal Pavilion & Museums,
Brighton & Hove
Brighton Herald 17 January 1857 |
Dr White sported a cape and flowing gown, and he was often to be seen going to and from Mrs Knight’s shop – dubbed the tuck shop by the schoolboys. It is a grim fact that there was another suicide at Hove Lodge, just 26 years after the previous one. Mr White committed suicide by hanging himself inside the house. He was aged 77 and was buried in the churchyard of St Andrew’s Old Church (now under a Tesco's Supermarket carpark) Apparently, his gravestone bore the rather unkind inscription ‘Dr White was pious without enthusiasm’. Old Mrs Knight swore she saw Dr White’s ghost now and again.
The running of the school then passed to Dr White’s son Percy White. The 1881 census recorded him living with his widowed mother Elizabeth, a housekeeper, two servants, and sixteen scholars. Percy White had a deep knowledge of French literature, wrote novels and played cricket for the Gentlemen of Sussex. His nephew was the celebrated C. B. Fry.
Charles Burgess Fry (1872-1956)
copyright © National Portrait Gallery
Charles Burgess Fry
by Ernest Clarence Elliott (1904)
NPG Ax39967
|
C. B. Fry has been described as the greatest all-round sportsman in history. Fry’s family on his father’s side had lived in Sussex for 800 years, although C. B. Fry was born in Croydon, just a few weeks after the Sussex County Cricket Ground opened its new ground at Hove – Fry was destined to be the Sussex captain in 1904. Fry managed to score 20,656 runs at an average of 56.43 runs during his cricketing career. At Oxford University Fry became a triple blue, and he went on to represent England in football, cricket, and athletics. For a long tine he held the world record for the long jump.
C. B, Fry’s first school was Hove Lodge, and he remembered the place as a large whitewashed house with school-rooms and playgrounds. He wrote ‘To Hove Lodge I used to go as a very small boy, in order to get a bad bilious attack and be dosed with syrup of senna by Dr Dill, and on recovery to live on the fringe of some forty boys, who (…) were taught Homer and Virgil by my uncle.’
Percy White gave Fry some formal education, but what stuck in Fry’s memory was learning how to shoot with a catapult. It was a craze at the school for boys to make catapult prongs from the top of cigar boxes, which were carved, shaped and polished. Elastic for the catapult was purchased from the nearby sweet shop. Whenever White caught a boy with a catapult, he would confiscate the offending article, and there were usually several languishing inside his big desk in the study.
However, Fry’s mother was unimpressed by her son’s progress at Hove Lodge, and never mind the fact that the head was her brother, so she despatched him to a school at Chiselhurst. She thought the discipline at Hove Lodge was too lax, and young Fry seemed to spend an inordinate amount of time fishing and shooting birds.
Flats
In around 1984 Hove Council sought to have Hove Lodge made a listed building because it was one of the oldest buildings in the area. But the application was turned down, probably because there were not enough original features left.
The building was described as being a two-storey structure, brick-built with contrasting brick-work at the level of the window tops on the ground and first floors. There was a projecting two-storey bay with six windows at either end – almost like small towers. There was a covered porch over the front door.
By 1986 the house was in the occupation of fifteen young squatters who were ejected in July of that year by six men wielding sledge-hammers and crowbars. The squatters fled, and the men proceeded to smash windows, doors ans floors, and watched by the police, boarded up the property.
In September 1986 an application to re-develop the site was deferred for further reports. But as Hove Lodge was not a listed building, the scheme could not be blocked. The house was demolished in 1986. One of the two owners decided to sweeten the destruction by removing the old fireplaces and selling them for charity. The sale produced £1,250 and the money was donated to the cancer treatment fund at the Royal Sussex County Hospital. The fireplaces were purchased by John Hynam of Grate Restorations. The site was re-developed by Coastal Counties Retirement Homes, and a four-storey block of twenty sheltered flats was built.
Hove Manor (Flats)
This block of flats was thus named because it stood on the site previously occupied by the old Hove Manor House. Clayton & Black of 10 Prince Albert Street designed the development that included 40 high-class residential flats, 10 spacious lock-up shops, and 26 lock-up garages. The advertising brochure also mentioned ‘electric express passenger lifts and electric service for servants and tradesmen. There are uniformed porters and pages, day and night.’
Initially the old gates from Hove Manor were incorporated into the top flat, number 53, and set between the living room and dining room. That is, until the occupant grew tired of them, and stored them on his balcony.
There was always a cafe at 5 Hove Manor Parade. Its first name was the Old Vienna Cafe, but by 1947 it was the Tommy Tucker Restaurant. By 1951 it had become the Hove Manor Restaurant.
In March 1988 it was stated that Juan Hernandez and his wife Frances had owned the restaurant for nearly twelve years. Frances’s brother-in-law was also involved in the business while the chef was Jose Navas. The cuisine was English and continental with a touch of Spanish flavour. In October 2000 the restaurant became the Coriander, and Katrin and David Smale ran it with David being the chef. The exotic cuisine originated in Morocco, Turkey and the Middle East.
Vallance Hall
This was the name of the old Post Office property situated on the corner of Vallance Road and Hove Street after it was taken over in the 1990s by Graves, Son & Pilcher for use as auction rooms. The first property sale was held there on 22 September 1993, realizing a sum of £412,000.
In August 2000 it was announced that the three Brighton partners of Graves, Son & Pilcher were retiring to concentrate on surveying and estate agency. They were Andrew Mackay, David Clifford, and Stephen Owen. The auction rooms would now be run by Scarborough Perry Fine Arts.
Under Separate Headings
The Ship Inn now The Ginger
Pig
Smugglers of Hove
Hove Planning Approvals
1896
– T. Chambers for Messrs Cranbourne & Cranbourne, residential
flats on the west side – bringing forward of bay windows permitted.
1911 – Clayton & Black for J. Hayler, two pairs of semi-detached houses and garages, west side
1922 – J, Parsons & Sons for Miss Annand, flats and a garage.
1922 – G. M. Jay, two pairs of semi-detached houses, west side
1922 – one pair of semi-detached houses, west side
1922 – A. W. Scammell for T. A. Divall, detached house
1922 – B. James for A. Chadwell, one pair of semi-detached houses, east side
1924 – B. J. James for A. Chadwell, three houses, east side
1925
– B. James for A. Chadwell, detached house
Sources
National Portrait Gallery
copyright © J.Middleton
2023
page layout and additional research by D. Sharp