Hove in the Past: Church Road, Hove - The Road of Restaurants.

Judy Middleton 2002 (revised 2024)

copyright © J.Middleton
It is not at all unusual in Church Road for various eateries to be next door to each other. This photograph, taken in 2019, shows three-in-a-row, that is the Ashoka at number 95, Ganges Brasserie at number 93, and Golden Grill at number 91

Church Road is famous for the large number of venues where food and drink may be sought It is claimed that Brighton and Hove have more restaurants per head of population than anywhere else in Britain apart from London. But surely Church Road is in a class of its own. However, because the market is so crowded not every venture can be a success, and many a hopeful new outlet is short-lived. In 2001 there were at least eighteen outlets – by the summer of 2019 there were well over 50.

It is interesting to note that in an article in the Argus (19 July 2019) the headline in the ‘food’ page was ‘When it comes to food … there is no place like Hove.’ Of course, that covers more than just Church Road but Church Road is where the most outlets are to be found. This is despite the perceived lack of promotion by Brighton-centric Brighton & Hove City Council. The success of Church Road is down to excellent choices, high standards, a more mixed demographic than in former times, word of mouth recommendation, a loyal clientele, and easier parking than in Brighton. There is also the fact that Hove has been chosen for new ventures rather than central Brighton because of the run-down aspect of some areas, and in particular Duke Street.

Number 4 – There has been an Indian restaurant here for a number of years. In the late 1970s and 1980s it was called the Mumtaz Mahal, and Somsu Miah was the owner. Mumtaz Mahal was the fabled princess with whom the Emperor Shah Jahan fell in love, and built the Taj Mahal to commemorate her.

In 1993 it became the Indiana Tandoori. In September 1999 the ground floor was extended and the restaurant re-decorated. Then in August 2000 there was a disastrous fire that destroyed the kitchen and ruined the interior. Abul Kashem, the owner, was in the flat above and escaped safely – two workers were also unhurt. The Indiana was so popular that many of its regular customers kept in touch to ensure they would know when it was re-opening. The Indiana opened its doors once again on 21 November 2000. It is still flourishing in 2019.

Number 6 – Topogigio was trading here in 2016. By 2024 Semola, an Italian restaurant, was on the site.

Number 8 – Pasquale Dario came from Italy in 1975, and in 1986 he and his wife Josephine opened Frascati. They claimed it was the oldest genuine Italian restaurant in Hove. However, things got off to a rocky start when only two months after opening, fire broke out in the rooms above the restaurant, and it was so fierce it melted the gas meter. By the time the fire brigade arrived flames were shooting out of the window from the fractured gas main.

In 1997 the restaurant was refurbished with an exterior featuring windows that folded back. There was a short interlude when Cafe 2000 occupied the premises, and by March 2000 a new venture Saucy had opened. Tamara Shanly opened it and there were fifteen staff members. The facade could not be ignored because it was painted in graduated shades of orange. It was by no means a fast-food restaurant, and customers had to wait while their choice of dish was prepared from scratch. It specialised in English food and in June 2000, after a favourable review in The Guardian, it became a busy place. Tamara Shanly took part in the Real Deal documentary on TV, which was to be broadcast on 4 September 2000. Unfortunately, in the programme her request for funding from a potential investor was turned down.

By 2015 the Cafe Chilli was trading here, offering traditional Thai food. Previously, the owner Seb Trower ran the Green Mango for five years. It is still there in 2019.

Number 10 – Unithai is basically an oriental supermarket, which during the last few years has installed a couple of tables and chairs at the back of the shop where customers can order food. It has been likened to the tradition of Thai street food. It is not the place for a quick snack because the food is freshly prepared in the small kitchen. The Gourmand, writing a review in the Argus (29 April 2016), recommended it to all lovers of Indo-china cuisine.

Number 16 – In the 1990s there was a sandwich bar here called Gatsby’s.

In 1995 it became Ercole’s Cafe / Bistro. This closed in 1998.

Later on the premises were occupied by the Seventy-6 Bar.

In August 2016 it was stated that new venture the Gin Tub could offer customers over 60 varieties of gin. Steve Tyler ran the bar and Scott Callister was his business partner. Apparently, Mr Tyler was keen to encourage conversation and interaction, and therefore banned electronic devices on the premises – rather like the ethos of the burgeoning micro-pub movement. Just in case punters sneak in their phones, he has taken the precaution of installing what is known as a Faraday cage, which effectively stops electronic signals. This was achieved by lining the walls with tinfoil before the wallpaper was put up, then placing a copper box on the premises. This action attracted world-wide interest with people from Japan and Australia contacting him.

Number 20A – The Shanghai Express was here from at least 1992 and was still in operation in 2000.

Number 22 – In 1995 A Fish Called Wanda occupied the premises, being named after a famous film. In November 1995 it was declared the overall winner in Hove Council’s shop-front award scheme. Manager Maroc Panayi had fitted it out himself. It closed in January 1996.

Then it became the Turkish Villa, which did not last long, and in 1998 it became Golden Fried Chicken or GFC. In 2019 the premises were shut and boarded up.

By 2024 the premises had received a thorough refurbishment, and strangely enough it reverted to being a place to find fish and chips. It is called Sea Breeze Fish and Chips.

Number 23 – In 2002 a restaurant called Snafu opened here.

Number 26 – By 2024 Gandom was in residence, providing residents with yet another unusual treat for the taste buds. The restaurant advertises itself as a Charcoal Grill, and uses fresh ingredients and home-cooked food. It specializes in Persian, Middle Eastern, and Lebanese food, and boasts the accolade of ‘Best Persian Food in Hove.’

Number 28 – In the 1980s the Bilash Tandoori was in business at this address and Faruque was the manager. It was said to be well patronised by the cricketing fraternity, including Merve (The Swerve) Hughes, Allan Border, the Waugh brothers, Devon Malcolm, Ian Salisbury plus the rest of the Sussex team at some or other. The restaurant was closed by 1999.

In April 1999 the Cafe Esperanto opened here, but was of short duration. In 2000 it had become the Terra Cotta. By 2016 the restaurant was called Makara.

Later on the premises were occupied by Shiraz, a Persian restaurant.

Number 34 – in February 2001 the Centre Ville was taken over by Dean Grant. Two months later he said he had needed to increase his food prices by thirty per cent because of the foot-and-mouth epidemic.

Cafe Malbec, described as an Argentine Wine & Tapas Bar-Brunch outlet, opened here in 2017. Damian Kelly owned the business, as well as LatinoAmerica next door. Cafe Malbec proved to be a ‘home from home’ for star players of Brighton & Hove Albion, who hailed from South America as well as from Spain. Their number included Alexis Mac Allister, Moises Caicedo, Jeremy Sarmiento, and Leonardo Ulloa, who was striker for the Albion 2012-2014. No doubt there was much jollification on the premises when Argentina won the World Cup in 2022. It came as an unwelcome surprise when at the end of March 2023 the sudden closure of Cafe Malbec was announced. (Argus 31/3/23)

It seems the property will not remain empty for long because in April 2023 it was reported that The Plotting Parlour would open its second venue here, being already established in Steine Street, Brighton. The venue was described intriguingly as a ‘high-end drinking spot’ and technically it is a cocktail bar, with small plates of food on offer too. When this year’s Brighton Restaurant Awards were announced The Plotting Parlour was top. (Argus 19/4/23)

Number 36 – This has been an eating-place since at least 1947 when it was called Maxim’s Restaurant. In around 1956 it was renamed the Gondola and remained in business until well into the 1970s. It was one of Hove’s first continental-style cafes and was a favourite meeting-place for youngsters. In the 1950s the décor included a romantic balcony festooned in artificial flowers, which was thought of as a great novelty.

Andreas Constanti ran a business here in around 1975 called the Cosmos Steak Bar.

In the Spring of 1993 it became the Latino. It had to shut for two months after a fire in the kitchen, and re-opened in November 1993. The restaurant combined authentic Spanish tapas dishes alongside Italian cuisine – the reason being that Italian owner Enrico de Napoli has a Spanish wife Mariela. It was still there in 2000.

LatinoAmerica opened in the premises in 2015, and was the first Argentinian restaurant in East Sussex. Those who love a juicy steak hurry to the establishment.

Damian Kelly is the owner of Latino-America Grill. No doubt business was robust enough for him also to set up another cafe, called Cafe Melbac, next door at number 36 in 2017. When the closure of that cafe was suddenly announced in 2023, it was stated that LatinoAmerica would have a new brunch menu, as well as wine-tasting events.

Number 41 – Harry’s English Restaurant opened in 1992. Harry and Lorna Lees ran it, and it was open seven days a week. They were proud to serve good old-fashioned English food. Mr D. Lees was the proprietor.

By 2012 it was Forty-One. It seems that Mr Brown, the man behind the venture and his first restaurant, had once worked in this very restaurant although he served his apprenticeship at the Grand, Brighton.

By 2017 La Nantais Bistro was in business here, and Pascal Benamari was the owner.

By 2022 it had become Mascara – tapas bar

By 2023 the establishment had acquired the unusual title of Fish Bait. But it is not a shop selling equipment to anglers because it provides meals for people.

Number 42 – There used to be a Lebanese restaurant here called Kenzi. In August 2015 a new venture opened called Skyfall, after some six months of work on a makeover. Unusually, it was described as a lobster and burger bar. In 2017 there was change of management and a re-launch but amazingly just a month later, the restaurant closed down. Perhaps it was not a fortunate name.

In 2019 a new restaurant called Wild Flor opened its doors. Top food critic Tom Parker Bowles set off to investigate when it was only six weeks old. He wrote a fulsome account headed By Jove! Is This Really Hove? describing the delicious food served and was impressed enough to award it four stars. He also wrote ‘Hove might have been thought of once as God’s Waiting Room, but Wild Flor is anything but moribund’. He finished his article with ‘Lucky, lucky Hove’. Co-owner Faye Hudson is well aware of the many restaurants in Church Road, but said ‘We’re trying to improve Hove together.’ (Mail on Sunday: Event 16 June 2019)

James Thomson, of Wild Flor, commented that when they were looking for suitable premises in which to open their restaurant, they were put off Brighton by high rents, and the poor state of central Brighton with many closed units. (Argus 19/7/19)

In April 2024 in the Brighton and Hove Restaurants Awards Wild Flor was awarded the accolade of ‘Best Restaurant for 2024’. The owners said they were stunned at the honour, and paid tribute to their ‘incredible team,’ the chefs and everyone else involved.

Number 55 – In 1993 Jimmy Doyle and Geoff Draper opened Jimmy’s here. The chef was Surathai Thittichai or Chai for short.

In 1996 the new restaurant’s name was Leonardo’s.

Thai restaurant Lemongrass opened for business in May 2017. Lemongrass is part of an expanding chain with other outlets already established at Burgess Hill. Lewes and Worthing.

The Lemongrass at Hove closed down in September 2024 to the regret of many customers. Apparently, the premises were now to let at an astonishing £60,000 a year. Another Lemongrass in Horsham had also shut recently, leaving only two bearing the same name in Sussex – at Burgess Hill and Brentwood. (Argus 22/10/24)

Number 57 – In 2017 Bison Beer was established in these premises – apparently it was an eclectic mix of bar, kitchen, bottle-shop and brewery.

Number 59 – By 2023 there was a new coffee shop on the scene with the intriguing name Flat Out.

Number 60 – In the summer of 1991 Los Amigos, a Mexican restaurant, opened here, and the owners were Behnam and Manocher Samandi. In November 1994 Majgan Schepers, the manager, said he had lived in California for five years, and that is where he came up with the idea of a Mexican restaurant. He also related that Los Amigos had once played host to the son of Mexico’s President who complimented him on the food and said it was better than Mexico. Los Amigos was still open in May 2017.

By 2019 the restaurant was called Zama, Punjabi Kitchen with the tag-line ‘Punjab inspired – made in Hove’.

More recently the venue has become Pesca , which one delighted reviewer claimed to be just like an authentic Italian trattoria with reasonable prices. The co-owners are Ed Scothern and Steph Marechal who have come fresh from a decade of experience in the Mele e Pere restaurant in Soho. In these cash-strapped times it is good to know that Pesca offers a lunch-time deal for a modest £10; this includes a pizza or pasta of the day plus a house soft drink, beer or wine. In addition, the back bar pays tribute to being located in Sussex with a grand array of wines, spirits and gin from the county. (Argus 24/2/23)

Unhappily, Pesca Trattoria’s stay at Hove was of short duration and by February 2024 its had closed its doors for good. It was a shame for a small family-run business but owner Ed Scothern admitted that trading had been incredibly tough and the expenses had become too high to continue. The closure was also a blow to business partners Andrea Mantovani and Peter Hughes who owned restaurants in London with Pesca being their first venture outside the capital.

Mr Scothern and Mr Hughes are directors of Apples and Pears Restaurants, while the Hove site is owned by Moretons Investments Ltd. (Argus 29/1/24)

Number 63 – In the 1980s Italian restaurant Tavernetta occupied the premises.

In April 1990 Scalini had opened here.

In 1990 the Greenhouse (Effect) opened its doors. In 1996 it advertised itself as Hove’s premier wine bar, and as a place where there was always music. There were two patios, and family seating was available.

In March 1992 the Cafe Milano opened on the lower ground floor. The owners were Enrico and Maria Denapoli who had also run Scalini. The new venture was described as a pasta and pizza restaurant.

On 25 May 2000 a new late-night music venue opened here. It is called Divino.

The Divino Wine Bar was still there in 2022.

Numbers 65 & 67 – In 1986 the Chai Talay was opened at number 67. It was run by international banker Alan Davies and his Thai wife Pranom. The name meant ‘by the seaside’. It closed in 1996.

Then it became the Casablanca.

Topolino Duo opened at number 67, and it earned the name because the first Topolino had been located at number 77 Church Road, now the Blind Busker pub.

In July 1999 Topolino took over the next door premises at number 65, previously occupied by Casablanca, and before that it was Pollo Loco. The Topolino owners, Angelo and Linda Cavallo, had been running Topolino and Topolino Duo since 1986, and shocked their loyal customers by making a sudden announcement of their retirement in October 2014. When they opened in 1986, it was the first Italian restaurant in Church Road, and therefore a novelty. Des Lyman was one of their customers and they were proud to host his 70^th birthday celebrations at their restaurant. Another customer was former Albion chairman Dick Knight who, rather cheekily, liked to conduct some of his business affairs there. Perhaps he thought that inviting a player to dinner would soften the blow of being let go. However, it soon became known that if you received such a dinner invitation there was no point in choosing dessert because you would soon be on your way with no job. Another customer was singer Peter Andre.

A new venture took over the premises called Neighbourhood but lasted for less than a year.

copyright © D. Sharp
In 2017 when renovation work was being carried out on the premises, the 1914 shop owner's business sign was revealed - S. Goodman, a Ladies' tailors

By 2016 Fatto a Mano was established there, and was still in business in 2019.

Number 69 – This restaurant, with seating outside, is simply called Baked, and has been operating from at least 2016, and remains in 2019.

Numbers 70 & 72 – La Piazza, an Italian restaurant, opened her in 1990 – the premises once being occupied by Combridge’s Second-hand and Antiquarian Bookshop, and Davis Keeler, Optician’s.

Later on the establishment was called Third Avenue and opened in November 2014. Behind the new venture was Ben Ranger, formerly owner of Hove Kitchen. He had decided to retain the pizza oven because he was aiming to establish not only a family restaurant, but also a cocktail bar and intimate nightspot. The exterior is unfortunately drab and uninviting with its use of black/brown paint. It is also difficult to distinguish what is what because The Grill Room is at number 70 while presumably Third Avenue occupies number 72.

By the summer of 2022 the premises had acquired the curious name of Catch and Grill. It is a new seafood restaurant.

Numbers 75 & 77 – There were two Italian restaurants next door to each other. Angello Cavallo purchased Topolino in 1989 (number 77) and he established Borselino (number 75) in 1991. In 1992 sports commentator Alan Weeks said that Topolino’s was one of his favourite restaurants. Borselino was a combination of cocktail lounge, cafeteria, and piano bar, and Cavallo’s sister Pina designed it in an Art Deco style. The bar at the rear of the conservatory was presided over by American barman Clay de Martino. Cavallo expended more than £10,000 on converting the premises – the manager was Ercole Timanti. Borselino attracted celebrities such as Michael Jayston, Chris Ellis, former Albion player Chris Catling, and boxer Chris Eubank.

Later on, both restaurants closed, and were converted into a super-pub called The Hogshead, which opened in June 1997. This was later re-named the Blind Busker. In November 2018 the Blind Busker re-opened after some £230,000 had been invested in a refurbishment.

When the Pub Spy from the Argus visited the venue, he was told that the unusual name derived from Harry Vowles, popularly known as the Blind Busker, who used to visit this pub. (Argus 7 June 2019).

This would have been a little difficult seeing as the premises only became a pub in 1997 – long after the era of the Blind Busker. Harry Vowles (1861-1919) used to play his accordion on Hove sea-front, and he also played the piano for the regulars in the New Pier Tavern, Preston Street, Brighton. (See also ‘Brighton & Hove Characters’)

In the summer of 2019 an outside bill-board advertised the existence of 100 different gins on the premises.

copyright © J.Middleton
These premises did not become a pub until 1997 – at first it was The Hogshead, and now it is The Blind Busker

Number 84 – Fourth and Church is an unusual venture comprising a wine shop, restaurant and gourmet deli all in one place. It takes its inspiration from La Brunilda Tapas Bar in Seville, and Russ & Daughters’ Deli in New York. Two talented chefs, Paul Morgan and Sam Pryor, are behind the new business, which opened in October 2015. In 2016 Fourth & Church received the Best Newcomer accolade in the Brighton & Hove Food & Drink Awards. In 2019 Sam Pryor said ‘People with more money and cosmopolitan dining habits are moving down from London. Hove is a quieter and calmer place … that is more conductive to quality.’

In 2023 the Michelin Good Food Guide included Fourth and Church in their top 100 of British restaurants. It cited the ‘ever-changing menu of imaginative small and sharing plates’ and of course there were also exciting wines from small producers. You might need recourse to a dictionary to interpret some of the ingredients/items mentioned in this fulsome tribute. (Argus 14/7/23)

1 The Drive – Although the frontage is firmly in Church Road, the premises are numbered 1 The Drive. By 2019 Nayeb was established here, offering an ‘authentic taste of Persia’. It replaced another eatery.

copyright © J.Middleton
Restaurants offering Persian cuisine have been new arrivals in Church Road, and Nayeb is one of them

1 The Drive – These premises have two doors – one opening from The Drive, and the other opening from Church Road. By 2019 Aji Sushi was in business here, replacing a short-lived eatery. But for many years it was home to a photography shop.

Number 89 – Caffe Nero has been established on this site since at least 2008. The building was once an impressive detached house, erected in 1877, and numbered at number 2 The Drive, with ornate lamps on gate piers in front of the entrance in Church Road.

copyright © J.Middleton
This old postcard view shows how the premises now occupied by Caffe Nero was once an up-market private residence

Number 91 – In the 1980s there was a restaurant here called Jasper’s.

In December 1990 the Hove Boulevard Restaurant opened. It is interesting to note that some of the original hand-painted tiles depicting farmyard animals, and dating from 1906, were then still in place.

By 2000 the Golden Grill, kebab house, occupied the premises, and is still in operation in 2019.

Number 93 – In the 1970s the premises were a popular place to visit and known as Woodie’s Wine Bar.

The Ganges Brasserie opened here in 1993, right next door to the long-established Ashoka. It might seem odd to be so close to a rival, but they must be doing something right because they are still in business in 2019. In 1995 it was stated that the Ganges could seat 34 people on the ground floor, and 24 people in the basement.

Number 95 – In 1977 the Ashoka was established here, with Rafique Miah being the manager. In 1992 it was stated that the Ashoka could seat 70 diners at one time, and the chef was Sozon Miah. By 1994 Rafique Miah had been in the catering trade for 24 years. In the same year the Ashoka expanded to include the shop next door at number 97, formerly occupied by Woodnutts, a cake-decorating shop. The new part was finished by October 1994, and included its own bar.

In 1995 the Ashoka was voted the best Indian restaurant in the south of England. In order to make the assessment an expert panel of judges, including an Egon Ronay critic, visited the restaurant incognito. In the same year Patak’s choose the Ashoka as the best Indian Restaurant of the Year. The Ashoka was run by the Miah brothers – Rafique, Bashir, Monir, and Dabir. In 1997 the Ashoka celebrated its 20^th anniversary. Rafique Miah related that many people thought they were unwise to expand the restaurant in the middle of a recession, but they found the extra space invaluable, and could seat 100 diners. The interior was graced by some lovely glass panels inspired by scenes from India executed by artist E. Compton.

copyright © J.Middleton
The Ashoka is a long-standing presence in Church Road, having been established in these premises in 1977, and still run by the same family

By 2017 the Ashoka had been welcoming customers to this address for 40 years – quite an achievement in such a volatile market. However, the end of the current lease of number 97 was on the horizon, and it was decided to downsize. In 2019 the Ashoka is still in its old home at number 95, while the next door premises remain empty.

Number 96 – The premises used to be occupied by a fashion clothes and accessories shop under the name of Nicole Urbanski, but in 2023 it became Po and Juice. It is a fashion of another sort because it serves fresh seasonal juices with different ingredients offered each day. But you can also enjoy lunches, salads, and baked potatoes, and if you arrive early in the morning you can have a bacon roll. The cafe is not open on Sundays, and closes unusually early at 4.p.m. (Argus 1/12/23)

Number 97 – This new restaurant called Topolino opened in 2023, next door to the long-standing Ashoka. There was some controversy regarding the name ‘Topolino’ because there had been a previous restaurant at Hove with the same name, first at number 77 where The Blind Busker is today, and then Topolino Duo at number 67. The former owners were not happy. The word topolino is Italian for a baby mouse, and in Italy Topolino is the name for Mickey Mouse.

Number 106 – The Bagelman has been in the premises since 2004, and in 2017 it was re-furbished. There are four outlets with this name in the Brighton area, It is pleasant to record in these days when cutting waste is such an issue that the left-over bread is used to create a craft beer called Optimist.

Number 107 – This building once housed Hove’s main Post Office. In November 1998 Pizza Express opened an outlet here, and is still thee in 2019.

Number 112 – By 2018 the premises were occupied by a branch of Subway.

copyright © J.Middleton
Subway can be found new door to the pub now called The Old Albion, but this photograph was taken in 2014

Number 113 – There used to be an Italian restaurant here but by 2018 it was Richard’s Cafe.

Number 115 – The Azaro Dhaba was founded in 2012 by Bradford-born partners Az and Kirti, but by 2017 the premises were to let. By August 2019 a new venture had opened its doors called Jo & Co, the owners being Jo and Pete Morrison. They now live locally but have enjoyed travels abroad, and indeed their experience of brunch-style restaurants in Australia and New Zealand was the inspiration behind this venture. They wanted also to create a ‘home from home’ atmosphere. The place is unusual in having long opening hours, and there are not that many restaurants that are ready for business at 9 a.m.

Number 116 – In around 1991 Foxwell’s Restaurant was established here.

In 1997 the premises were re-furbished and became Oscar’s. They offered a sandwich and snack trade to local business people. The items were delivered to various offices and shops by a woman carrying the goods in a large wicker basket. By 1998 Oscar’s was open seven days a week, and a board outside proclaimed The friendliest welcome in Hove and A fine English-style menu. There were plans to open a minstrel’s gallery in order to provide more seating.

In May 1999 the restaurant changed to Colours – an appropriate name since the gallery room exhibited a riot of colours with golden terracotta, blue and green being employed. There was an original marble fireplace, picture rail, and sash windows – on one side still displaying the round knob on the lock-bar. The gallery part of the restaurant had been created by installing a grand staircase to link with the ground floor. Unhappily, Colours closed in 1999, and the premises were still unoccupied at the start of 2001.

In May 2001 a Malaysian restaurant called Time opened there.

By 2017 the premises were Misty’s Wine and Cocktail Bar.

By 2019 it was called The Mixologist.

In late 2023 a new venture curiously called Black Doors opened on the site, although the place was now designated 116A.

Number 118 – In 2019 a family-run restaurant called Shandiz occupied the premises, and it is claimed to be the best Persian restaurant in Brighton and Hove.

Number 119 – Le Petit Pain opened here in 2001.

The Paris Wine Bar has been in operation on the site since at least 2016.

Number 120 – In 2019 a US-style diner was serving food here – it is a branch of the 7 Bone Burger Company.

Number 121 – In June 1992 Oriell Brasserie opened here. But it was closed by September 1998, and the premises remained shut for a while.

copyright © J.Middleton
China Hins is next door to Fresh (now closed), which was occupied by Forfar’s for many years

Then in April 1999 China Hins opened, and twenty years later it was still in business.

In July 2019 the restaurant lease was up for sale at a rent of £41,000 pax with the restaurant trading area being stated as 1,911 sq-ft.

By 2023 the premises were occupied by Wabi Bibi offering Japanese cuisine.

Number 122 – In November 1990 Otello Ristorante opened, and brothers Rahim and Saied Abdulkhami were the owners – they also owned Orsino’s on the opposite side of the road. In August 1999 planning permission was given for a first floor extension, and the use of part of a flat roof overlooking Medina Villas, but outdoor seating must not be used after 10 p.m.

copyright © J.Middleton
The phrase ‘spoilt for choice’ comes to mind when looking at these buildings because here are four eateries next door to each other – The Mixologist, Shandiz, 7 Bone and Otello

Number 124 – By 2019 Hixon Green, a coffee and wine bar, was in operation on the premises. It claimed to serve the best brunch in Hove.

Number 126 – The name Persia is up on the board, and Emad Abdolkhani opened it in 2019.

Number 128 – New outlet Barcode was said in 2016 to be a fusion between American and Italian cuisine. It took a very long time to refurbish the premises before Barcode opened. Emad Abdolkhani owns the restaurant. It closed in 2019.

In 2022 a new eatery opened in the premises, which had remained empty since Barcode closed. It is called Franco Manco, and there are some 50 other enterprises with the same name dotted around the country. Franco Manco claim to be pioneers in offering sourdough pizzas.

Number 129 – In 2014 it was stated that Thai restaurant the Giggling Squid opened at Hove six years ago, and was co-owned by Pranee and Andy Laurillard. Apparently, the memorable name originates from the time the couple were looking over the premises at Hove before purchase accompanied by their one-year old son Henry who would not stop wriggling in Pranee’s arms.

The venture was not just a whim because they both had solid business experience – Pranee was involved in brand strategy and marketing, while Andy’s background included a start at Unilever, then a short time at Coco-cola, followed by a spell at Crawley-based Tui Travel.

On 28 July 2014 there was a terrific thunderstorm at Hove with hailstones the size of golf balls plummeting down on the George Street and Church Road area. Unfortunately, the storm caused a leak in the roof of the Giggling Squid, which brought down a ceiling while water poured into the basement. The restaurant had to close for almost five months while extensive work was undertaken to the tune of £200,000. But the couple decided to keep the old brickwork and driftwood because it was part of the character. The Giggling Squid re-opened in December 2014 with 80-covers spread over two floors.

Since then the Giggling Squid has become a fast-growing chain, and by November 2015 there were thirteen branches across the south of England with the same name – but the Hove one was the first. The headquarters are in Guildford. In November 2015 it was announced that the Business Growth Fund were willing to provide funding of 6.4 million to the Giggling Squid restaurant chain.

Number 131 – In March 1993 it was stated that Jack Kyprian took over The Chip Basket eight years previously. In 1993 it was re-furbished, and customers could now drink wine or beer with their meals. It had another makeover in 2002.

In February 2009 blonde waitress Sylvia Murphy celebrated 30 years working at The Chip Basket. She said she had no plans to go yet because she would miss the regular customers too much, and she thought they would miss her too. Her favourite memory was when one customer celebrated her 100^th birthday at the restaurant, announcing that she was not bothered about receiving a telegram from the Queen, but a good fish supper would suit her fine. Sylvia has had celebrities amongst the customers including comedian Sir Norman Wisdom, singer Adam Faith, and cricket umpire Dickie Bird.

By 2019 it had become Bankers Express.

Number 141 – In June 1993 Orsino’s opened on the corner site of Ventnor Villas. The owners were Saied and Rahim Abdulkhami, and they also owned Otello’s. In 1993 it was stated that Orsino’s had a neo-colonial interior, marble-topped tables, and a beautiful floor. In 1995 the restaurant and bar received a licence to operate until midnight from Monday to Wednesday, and to 1 a.m. from Thursday to Saturday. Some residents in Ventnor Villas opposed the application while others said they were perfectly happy with the way the establishment was run. In 1998 it was claimed that Orsino’s enjoyed something of an international reputation, and took bookings in advance from customers in France and Norway. In the summer, tables and chairs are set outside. During the World Cup the restaurant was decorated with the flags of all the participating nations. In December 2018 owner Rahim, aged 54, said some £150,000 had been expended on re-furbishing the restaurant and he was delighted that the council awarded it five stars for hygiene.

By 2022 the establishment was called Ole Ole. It is a tapas bar and promises a true taste of Spain.

By 2023 the establishment was called Carne, hardly the most enticing of titles, especially since locally-caught fish is also on the menu. However, the restaurant offers ‘high-welfare meat’ and it was a new venture for Phil Bartley, a local chef. But by May 2024 there had been another name change and it is now Kraft. You can have ‘artisan burgers’ and ‘super tasty pastries delivered to your door. Apparently, there is a Kraft Tap Room in Rottingdean.

Number 145 – Modelo Lounge is located in double-fronted premises here. It has special windows that can be folded right back during warm weather.

Number 147 – By 2019 The Real Pattisserie was in business in these premises.

Number 150 – People will remember this site being occupied by the long-standing Seafield pub. In 2022 a new eatery called Mon Cafe opened its doors there. There is a delightful, tiled courtyard at the back where you may sit in fine weather to enjoy your meal, seemingly far away from the traffic outside.

Number 154 – Perfect Pizza was located here in the 1990s, and in 1998 the manager was Adrian English, aged 38, of Montgomery Street. On 8 February 1998 Mr English was attacked and left for dead at Devil’s Dyke – he managed to survive but he was badly injured. In 1999 his two male attackers were convicted of the crime – one was jailed for nineteen years and the other was jailed for eighteen years.

By 2018 an outlet of the Yummie Pizza chain was operating on the premises.

Number 157 – This shop was formerly occupied by the long-established firm of Broadley Brothers, men’s outfitters. It closed in 2001 and it was announced that the Goodbean Coffee firm had taken over the premises, and expected to open a coffee shop in July 2001. However, there were planning problems and the opening was delayed until the end of the year. Apparently, Goodbean Coffee ran nineteen coffee shops across the south east of England with their headquarters being located in Palmeira Square. Ray Bloom was the chairman of the company, and he was also a director of Brighton & Hove Albion. Goodbean’s presence in Church Road was extraordinarily brief and in December 2001 the Coffee Republic opened its doors.

By 2018 the premises were called Gail’s Bakery, and the window facing Church Road has a tantalising display of artisan loafs on shelves. There are also chairs and tables outside. The restaurant is not exclusive to Hove, because there is another branch at Brighton, as well as other places such as London and Oxford.

Number 159 – In June 1990 Uncle Wolfie’s American Deli was launched. The venture was the brainchild of local lad Jeremy Martin, aged 21. It was open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. from Monday to Saturday, and on Sunday mornings. The Deli was situated near the bottom of George Street with a pedestrian crossing nearby, and so there was plenty of footfall. But it was short-lived, and there is a dental practice there now.

Number 164 – The shop was once home to The Bus Stop Deli. Then it was replaced by The Mangerie – it was said to be unusual as it offered good cheap fixed-price menus. But should patrons wish to drink wine, they had to bring in their own bottles. In September 1997 there was enough seating for 30 people, but the kitchen had been moved downstairs, and so more tables would soon be available. It was still in business in 2000.

Later on it became Treacle & Co. and in 2019 it is Treacle and Ginger. Michael Green and his wife are the couple behind Treacle and Ginger. When Michael Green was aged 52, and after a fulfilling career in orthopaedics that took him away from home more often than he liked, he decided he needed a change of life-style. He wanted to see more of his wife Lisa, and their three children. Lisa Green is an artist, as well as once being a retail manager for Dorothy Perkins. She also had experience with the Open House art event during the Brighton Festival. Therefore, Treacle and Ginger was not just a place for delicious food and drink, but also served as an art gallery where customers could purchase the ceramics, paintings, and sculptures on show. Michael Green was able to fund the project by accessing money from his pension pot under the Pension-led Funding Scheme, which meant he did not have to put his property on the line.

In 2019 Lisa Green said ‘The growth of the city has meant that Hove has a more mixed demographic and had become a more vibrant and interesting place to live. Businesses now feel more confident that the area can sustain them.’ (Argus 19/7/19)

In 2022 there was a new business on the premises called Symva Coffee Grinders.

Number 166 – A new cafe opened here in late 2022 called Cha Tea, and it also provided vegan food.

Number 175 – In 1983 owner Mr Maniruddin opened Hove Tandoori Restaurant. It was under the same management when the place was re-furbished in 1991. It is still in business in 2019.

Number 181 – For many years the premises were occupied by a pharmacy. Then in 2018 the Good Stock Deli opened. The business were able to take advantage of a space at the side of the shop in Connaught Road to make an outside eating area.

Numbers 182-186 – Domenica’s Cafe opened in Hove Library in 2018, two years after the first one opened in Brighton. The idea behind the cafe is a very valuable innovation because it serves as a safe environment in which to train young people with learning difficulties. Employment rates for these people is very low, but after training at Domenica’s Cafe, they are often able to work some hours in other cafes, thus earning wages, adding greatly to their self-esteem and their enjoyment of life.

Number 194 – Barbecue Hut was there in the late 1990s. By 2018 it was A Taste of India.

Number 196 – In 2002 the Lum Thai was in business here. New venture Fudgies was here by 2019. By 2022 the establishment was called Ola’s.

Number 197 – Drury, tea and coffee, was at this address by 2018 – there is another Drury in Richardson Road. The Church Road café closed in 2019.

Number 202 – In 2000 Hove Kebab House opened. It is still there in 2019.

Number 208 – The Japanese restaurant Oki-Nami (meaning Big Wave) was established in the premises from at least 1994, and was still there in 2002. Later it moved to New Road, Brighton.

The new restaurant was called Moonstone, which offered cuisine from Sri Lanka.

Number 210 – In 2016 Porteur was opened and run by Paul and Kelly. It is certainly a place with a difference and must be unique in the area because it specializes in mending bicycles, while at the same time offering refreshments from their simple menu, and promoting social group rides. The project takes its inspiration from the bicycle cafes, which are popular in Europe. The well-equipped workshop is in the basement, and there are hopes of expanding the cafe area into a garden at the back.

Numbers 214-216 – For many years Lloyd’s Bank occupied the premises – the exterior still has the architectural details of an important bank popular at the time it opened.

In December 1994 a restaurant opened called simply 2-1-6. The owners were John Jessop and Carlos Silva, the latter also being the manager. The head chef was Muir Picken. The owners had extensive experience in the restaurant business, having run three in the centre of London, the most famous being Rue St Jaques in Charlotte Street. However, the Hove restaurant did not take off and closed in 1996.

The next venture was called Picasso – it opened in 1997 and closed the next year.

Then came La Caprice, which unhappily had a worse track record than the previous enterprises, opening its doors in 1998, and closing down the same year.

In July 1999 the Indian restaurant Zamdani opened on the premises. At least it had a longer run of business and did not close until October 2016.

In March 2017 a new venture called Etch opened its doors. People wondered whether it would be a success, given the history of past endeavours, and also the fact that the building is right at the end of Church Road. But Etch was a restaurant with a difference, being intended for those who enjoy excellent food and have adventurous tastes. In fact, the restaurant was the idea of Steven Edwards, a winner of MasterChef; The Professionals in 2013.

copyright © J.Middleton
Etch is to be found on the corner of Hove Street and Church Road. When this photograph was taken the attractive hanging baskets were filled with purple and white flowers

In 2017 it was stated that there were special Guest Chef evenings when tickets cost £80 per person, or £110 for a food and wine pairing. In 2017 guest chef Mark van Bemmel of the Publique in The Hague cooked at Etch during the Brighton and Hove Food Festival. In 2018 Steven Edwards returned the favour by cooking at the Publique.

Steven Edwards likes to decorate his premises with artwork produced locally. In February 2017 Etch unveiled its latest artwork Nyekimber created by contemporary collage artist Louise Phillips. She used the foils taken from bottles of sparkling wine produced by Nyetimber. The name Nyekimber is a compliment to Steven’s wife Kim.

In January 2019 it was announced that Etch had been awarded three rosettes by the AA. This is a distinction indeed because there are only sixteen other establishments in the whole of the United Kingdom to enjoy this honour.

In 2019 Steven Edwards said ‘Opening in Hove was about space and having a separate delivery entrance and being more accessible for guests to come from – potentially – outside of the city.’ He also stressed the great sense of loyalty from existing customers. (Argus 19/7/19)

In December 2019 there came news that Etch was ranked as the 16^th best restaurant in the entire country according to Harden’s Best Restaurant Guide (2020 edition). Steven Edwards said that when they heard the news they were a little bit in shock but of course absolutely delighted. It is another accolade for the restaurant with kind words in the guide such as ‘a fine dining experience without a fine dining ambience’ plus a ‘depth of flavour and delicacy that’s a level up from most other such places’.

Steven Edwards also stated that they changed the full menu every four weeks, and experienced gourmets could opt for a seven-course meal. Mr Edwards likes to work with farmers and smallholders, and he is convinced the quality of their produce is such that the cooks do not need to use spices – even pepper – to enhance the taste. (Argus 24 December 2019).

Fortunately for lovers of fine dining with deep pockets, Etch managed to weather the pandemic. Perhaps the management thought an exterior makeover would be appropriate and celebrate its survival. Unfortunately, they ditched the traditional white / cream paint of times past, and instead chose a depressing shade of gun-mettle grey.

In 2022 Steven Edwards is still only a youthful 36 years old. His head chef is George Boarer who, together with his team, continues to develop his dishes, and still provides thirteen different menus in a year, according to the seasonal availability of various foods. A new venture is what Edwards describes as a ‘speak-easy cocktail bar’ called Ink, which is in a space previously occupied by a tattoo parlour, and where the head bartender is Bethany Pogson. Edwards states that he will soon allow non-diners access to Ink. (Argus 14/10/22 )

In October 2022 the AA released its Restaurant Guide 2023 and awarded Etch four rosettes – the only other eatery in Hove to receive the same accolade was the Little Fish Market in Upper Market Street. (Argus 21/10/22)

Etch continues to be very well-regarded Its name appears in Hardens, which is a restaurant guide that awards ratings taken from an annual survey instead of professional inspectors. Etch appears in the top 500 venues for the whole country. There is a very pertinent remark too, and that is were Etch to be located in London, the food would cost three times as much. (Argus 15/12/23)

In June 2024 the ‘The National Restaurants Awards’ placed Etch in the top 100 restaurants in the U.K. and ‘Tripadvisor’ places it with an average five-out-of-five star review. One ‘foodie’ reviewer was happy to state the ‘restaurant deserves all the accolades and praise it receives.’

In June 2024 it was announced that Steven Edwards would be hosting an exclusive supper club at the Food and Drink Studio in Fortnum & Mason, London, on 10 July this year with tickets costing £80 – fortunately the price includes wine pairing with the different dishes. (Argus 28/6/24)

See also the separate Church Road page

Sources

Argus

Internet searches

Mail on Sunday (16 June 2019)

Middleton J, Encyclopaedia of Hove and Portslade

Hove in the Past

Pages

16 August 2019

Church Road, Hove - The Road of Restaurants.